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CX-GL Honda MCC

I Used To Have One Of Those

Martin J

Triple bypass. Advice & recommendations needed

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Got the engine out of the frame yesterday (79 deluxe, cdi, but running on ignitec). Removed the rear cover & stripped it bare, apart from the old mech seal, which I have left in situ. The reason being, I don’t know if the existing seal is the smaller type or not. Like others, I am not comfortable with attacking the rear cover myself, so have entrusted the job to a local company I trust. (Got the new seal from the club shop, thanks, Marty.)

The stator is leaving me a bit confused & unsure which way to proceed.

I like the idea of using the G8 model, for the increase in power but as I would need to adapt the wiring to suit, I’m not sure that I would be competent enough for it to be successful. I believe not all the existing components are no longer required because of the ignitec. So I am leaning towards having the existing one rewound.

Question, when having a stator rewound, does it normally get returned with the required wiring in place ready to plug in or does it need adding once returned?

What is the reason the G8 is more powerful? Can a rewound G47 be rewound to a higher output?

Camchain & tensioner. On inspection of the rear cover, at some point in the bike’s history, the camchain (possibly the original one), has come into contact with the cover, with gouges in the metal right at the top. It does have the modified type of tensioner fitted. I believe I have somewhere , receipts from DS for the tensioner & camchain, given to me by the previous owner. They will have done at maximum around 15k miles, so unless I identify any unusual wear or damage I am considering leaving them alone.

Having looked through the forums & YouTube , I’m surprised that I couldn’t find any comprehensive guides from start to finish on this topic bearing in mind how commonplace this issue is.

Any thoughts,observations, advice , guidance and recommendations gratefully received .

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Hi Martin,

I think myself and others have commented on what to do for a triple bypass - if you search posts under the Forum button.

 

Rob Davis also had a website with lots of text - it might be back up again ?

 

Also check in the downloads section.

 

If you have any specific question then go ahead and post here.

 

Eric.

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nothing changes when you put in a g8 stator because if you are allready running an ignitec you are not using the wires. unless you are confidant that your original cdi box works( if it is dead there are no replacements so ignitec your only viable option) the g8 has the same 3 yellow wires which are connected any way round but be very carefull of the oroginal 3 pin connector blocks were s**t when new so 30 years on even more s**t!!

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Happy New Year

 

Triple bypass is easier than it sounds and you rightly point out the only quirk regarding the different size mechanical seals. Once done though it is all plain sailing and with the shop supplying good quality seals at a good price, whats not to like.

 

As you already in there, I would not skip the tensioner; a bit like taking off your car gearbox and not doing the clutch, it will at least give you peace of mind.

 

Agree with all other comments

 

Ride safe

Richard

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Changing the mechanical seal is no big deal but you cannot get the old sized seal any more and replacements are about 2mm bigger. I have done a few and just used a Dremmel tool to round out the hole slightly larger. No scientific exact drilling required. I fitted the new seal with a grey compound which was recommended on this site, cannot remember the name but it filled out any ovalness in the hole and sealed well. You should use a Honda special tool to pull the seal into the hole but you could improvise using thick washers,nuts and a treaded bar but dont drift them in because they will distort and crush( or so i'm told!!!!)

 

 

Andy.

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i use loctite hydraulic sealant then belt the seals in with a suitable socket and big hammer, these seals are a deformation fit so belting in makes them happy!!( try to not hit the carbon seal face or buy some more)

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Thanks for the replies, guys.

At present don’t have any concerns with the mech seal replacement. Still not 100 per cent decided on the stator. To date I haven’t seen any info on what I will need to do regarding the wiring should I get an aftermarket G8 stator. I do not have the actual cdi anymore , so it’s not something I have to take in to consideration.

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FWIW, gouge marks from old camchain are fine, probably even nirmal now!

If you are happy taking the r cover off yourself, then leave camchain be. If however you are paying for someone to do it, and you can afford the extra cash, swap the camchain too, then you won't be taking the cover off agsin for 30k miles, hopefully!

 

Good luck!

 

B

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I just did a cam chain and followers on one of my bikes and ended up within a couple of months leaking coolant from the mech seal and my battery not charging from a duff stator - when you have the cover off so all you have to !!

 

I would also replace any rubber o-rings too - there are a couple inside the back cover I think on water pipes I believe - and a few inside the front cover on oil flow pipes. I would also replace the onbes on the water pipe elbows up near the heads and the coolant pipe at the back water pump.

 

I would also replace the oil pump chain as this is always stretched beyond its specs too.

 

I would pull the heads off too and re-grind the valve seats and put in new valve seals too.

 

With the engine out I'd replace the little tacho drive oil seal too - it can leak once every 20 years or so !!!

I'd also replace the little oil seal in the clutch cover and the oil seal at the gear change lever.

 

And refurb your starter - take it apart - clean lightly - replace o-rings and brushes - and do the earth mod (tap to inside cap of starter).

 

Easier to do all these jobs while the engine is out.

 

Eric.

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All good stuff , thanks.

Eric, the tacho seal has been leaking for a while, struggled to work out how to remove it previously but am determined to sort it now.

As regards the rear cover gouging, I now believe it is not the original cover (different design to what would have been fitted ). So I think it was done before fitmentto my engine.

On examination of the cam chain tensioner, it is showing no wear whatsoever. There is no evidence of problems with the tensioner blades either. So at present planning not to touch.

I will be renewing all the relevant o rings.

Still not clear on the stator renew. With an ignitec, I know I no longer need the blue & white wires. Do I still need the pick ups or are they now redundant?

If I buy a G8 replacement, what are the wiring arrangements/ mods needed for it to plug into my set up.

If I go down the route of having my stator rewound, do I send it as is, I.e. with all the wiring / pick ups still connected? Or should I split the wiring sleeve to separate these? Again, what exactly do you normally receive back? Should it come back with the rubber grommets in situ & all sleeved up with the appropriate connector blocks attached?

Cheers, Martin.

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Having looked on the cx forum, it would seem that the pick ups are still needed. With the ignitec in place the advance pulser & its wiring are now redundant & can be omitted.

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Anyone had recent rewind done by West Country Winding ?

 

Yes, although it was about 2 years ago. They use heavy duty wiring in place of the old thin stuff. Expensive but they did the job that I wanted. I would use them again.

DC

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Hi Dan, That’s interesting.

What set up is your bike running?

Cdi or ignitec?

Did you have it rewired as original? Or if ignitec fitted did you have some wires deleted on the rewire? I.e. the blue & white, plus the advance pulser wires?

Did you have any earth wires added?

Did you have any issues explaining to them exactly what you required?

Sorry for the number of questions but I want to get this right the first time.

Martin.

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Tacho seal is a bit of a pig to get out as the little drive blade is sitting in the middle of it !

 

Best method is to use a small self tapping screw and screw it carefully into the body of the seal until it bites (2 or 3mm only) then grab this screw with a narrow nose pliers and pull out the seal (it should come unless some numpty has superglued it in - has happened !!). You may need to screw into the otehr side of the seal to get a pull on it from a different angle too.

 

Be careful as you're working down a "tube" and if you lever the pliers on the edge of it you could crack it.

 

Eric.

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I removed the tacho seal by first removing the tachograph drive cover and placing it in a vice then pulling gently on the little tab that slots into the cable whilst heating the housing. When it gets hot enough it slips right out. I used a little bit of rubber hose to protect the wee tab. I tried Eric''s method but didn't have much luck, it works for many others though.

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Hi Dan, That’s interesting.

What set up is your bike running?

Cdi or ignitec?

Did you have it rewired as original? Or if ignitec fitted did you have some wires deleted on the rewire? I.e. the blue & white, plus the advance pulser wires?

Did you have any earth wires added?

Did you have any issues explaining to them exactly what you required?

Sorry for the number of questions but I want to get this right the first time.

Martin.

 

Hi Martin

The bike is original and no mods to the electronic ignition. When I purchased this rough old dog I set about checking everything. The ohms readings quoted in the Haynes manual for the alternator were not what is was seeing on my meter. There was one reading that was way out of tolerance and it was from the stator windings. I sent the stator and 2 pick-ups to WCW and they did a diagnostic and confirmed the stator windings were jiggered. They replaced the stator windings with heavy duty wiring. It looked odd compared to the original but was to be expected. Return to me took a Couple of weeks and, as I recall, cost about £150 maybe a bit more. When fitted back into the engine casing the readings were all good. The bike ran fine when I got it back together and out on the road. It remains original with no additional wires added or taken away.

This is a bike that I hardly ride and, at the end of last summer decided to get the engine running. Unfortunately, it would only fire on one cylinder (see my previous posts on this issue). I traced the problem (bad ohms reading) to one of the coil pick-ups. Luckily, one of the club members had a spare (Pete G) and sent it to me. Why this pick up should fail at that time I have no idea. I guess these old bikes are going to throw up issues from time to time. Anyway, replacement pick-up was shoehorned in the engine harness and engine about to go back in the frame. This bike is undergoing a refurbish after having the frame powder coated and may be another month or so until I can get the bike started again.

Hope this helps but let me know if you need further assistance.

DC

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In the end, I chose to get a G8 stator. DS had the best price & its an electrex part. I am on with the wiring now & just about done, no issues it was reasonably straightforward. Might try & post a pic or two.

The mech seal change has turned into its own mini drama but now hopefully resolved. I decided to take it to a local motor engineer company (I have used before), for them to swop as I didn’t know if the existing one was the original smaller diameter or a later replacement, and I didn’t feel competent enough not to make a mess of enlargement if required.

So I took the rear case to them with the old seal still in place so they could see how it located in the case etc. I explained the story of the different sized seals etc. They said they were very busy & that it would be a couple of weeks before they could get round to it. That wasn’t an issue because I still had to order parts & wait for them to arrive.

So eventually got my cover back (after they had forgotten about everything I had told them on dropping the cover off). Seal in nicely weep hole still visible, then I spot the deliberate mistake. They have enlarged the hole by reaming out the hole from the inside face of the cover. Nice job ,but the oil seal is slightly loose,lol. So after abit of a panic & a rant about nobody being competent at anything, I thought about the possible solutions. The oil seal is also available with the same id & thickness in a 2mm large od. So ordered one, it arrived the next day, took the cover back & explained the issue. They were more embarrassed than apologetic and promised to sort it for me. So fingers crossed.

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common problem......they roll out the intelligent one to talk to real people then they pass the work over to one of the monkeys in the background who is not able to talk to people and he does his own thing. Thats why I'd rather have a go very carefully myself than let them go ham fisted at it !!

 

Just because they have a sign over the door doesnt mean all of them are good !!

 

Eric.

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